Aeonium canariense is an impressive evergreen succulent with large velvety rosettes, 6-12 in. across (15-30 cm), of fleshy leaves. Fresh green when grown in part shade, the soft, fuzzy leaves become tinged with reddish pink when exposed to the sun. Attractive when not blooming, this Aeonium is particularly striking when it produces bright golden racemes of small, star-shaped flowers in summer. Similarly to Sempervivum (Hen & Chicks), this Aeonium offsets freely. Blooming stems packed with cream-yellow flowers emerge in summer, reaching up to 3 feet (90 cm).
How to Grow and Care
These plants are easy to grow in sandy, well-drained soil kept at a dry-to-medium moisture level.
Generally speaking, they can do well with standard succulent care. While they can do well kept indoors, they are mostly happier outdoors.
Water: Aeoniums do not like really hot or dry weather. They may go dormant in summer and do not require any water, except in very dry conditions. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl, to prevent excessive water loss. Growing them in moist shade will keep them growing, but their true growth season is winter to spring, when temperatures are cool (65–75˚F / 18–24˚C) and damp. In the winter, water whenever the soil has dried out. Test by poking your finger down into the soil an inch or two. Too much moisture or allowing them to sit in wet soil will cause root rot.
Soil: A sandy loam or regular potting mix is better than a mix specifically for cacti and succulents since Aeoniums need some moisture. If you are growing them in containers, repot every 2 –3 years with fresh potting soil.
Fertilizer: Feed during the growing season with a half-strength balanced fertilizer, every month or so. Do not feed while dormant.
USDA Hardiness Zones: Most of these plants will only do well in zones 9-11.
Origin: Aeonium canariense is native to Canary Islands.
Propagation: Take a leaf cutting (a whole leaf complete with the node) or a stem cutting.
Let the leaf or stem dry for a day or two, more in humid locations. The thickness of the stem and humidity in your area will determine how the cuttings need to dry. As I mentioned above, I have never tried propagating aeoniums from leaves. Stem cuttings are my way to go because I find it easier, fool-proof and less time consuming. Leaf cuttings will take longer to grow into mature plants as they have more parts to grow.
Dip in rooting hormone (optional step).
Stick the stem cutting in a well draining soil. Stick the leaf cutting in soil or lay it on soil.
Water the soil every few days or when dry and keep away from direct sunlight.
After a few weeks, roots should have developed. You can check for roots by tugging at the plant. If the plant does not slide out of the soil easily then roots have formed and you have yourself and new plant that will soon grow, branch out and produce more aeoniums.
Keep away from direct sunlight until fully rooted. Slowly increase the amount of light.
Once mature, you can decrease watering as the plant becomes more drought tolerant.
- Scientific Name: Aeonium canariense (L.) Webb & Berthel.
- Common Names: Giant Velvet Rose, Tree Aeonium
- Synonyms: Aeonium giganteum, Sempervivum canariense, Sempervivum latifolium
- Family: Crassulaceae
- Subfamily: Sedoideae
- Tribe: Sedeae
- Subtribe: Sedinae
- Species: A. canariense
- Genus: Aeonium
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| source pic: agaveville.org |
How to Grow and Care
These plants are easy to grow in sandy, well-drained soil kept at a dry-to-medium moisture level.
Generally speaking, they can do well with standard succulent care. While they can do well kept indoors, they are mostly happier outdoors.
Water: Aeoniums do not like really hot or dry weather. They may go dormant in summer and do not require any water, except in very dry conditions. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl, to prevent excessive water loss. Growing them in moist shade will keep them growing, but their true growth season is winter to spring, when temperatures are cool (65–75˚F / 18–24˚C) and damp. In the winter, water whenever the soil has dried out. Test by poking your finger down into the soil an inch or two. Too much moisture or allowing them to sit in wet soil will cause root rot.
Soil: A sandy loam or regular potting mix is better than a mix specifically for cacti and succulents since Aeoniums need some moisture. If you are growing them in containers, repot every 2 –3 years with fresh potting soil.
Fertilizer: Feed during the growing season with a half-strength balanced fertilizer, every month or so. Do not feed while dormant.
USDA Hardiness Zones: Most of these plants will only do well in zones 9-11.
Origin: Aeonium canariense is native to Canary Islands.
Propagation: Take a leaf cutting (a whole leaf complete with the node) or a stem cutting.
Let the leaf or stem dry for a day or two, more in humid locations. The thickness of the stem and humidity in your area will determine how the cuttings need to dry. As I mentioned above, I have never tried propagating aeoniums from leaves. Stem cuttings are my way to go because I find it easier, fool-proof and less time consuming. Leaf cuttings will take longer to grow into mature plants as they have more parts to grow.
Dip in rooting hormone (optional step).
Stick the stem cutting in a well draining soil. Stick the leaf cutting in soil or lay it on soil.
Water the soil every few days or when dry and keep away from direct sunlight.
After a few weeks, roots should have developed. You can check for roots by tugging at the plant. If the plant does not slide out of the soil easily then roots have formed and you have yourself and new plant that will soon grow, branch out and produce more aeoniums.
Keep away from direct sunlight until fully rooted. Slowly increase the amount of light.
Once mature, you can decrease watering as the plant becomes more drought tolerant.
 |
| source pic: agaveville.org |
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