In late spring to early summer, the plant is covered by drooping clusters of delicate pink flowers that look somewhat like grapes or wisteria flowers. These flowers are what gives the plant all its folk names.
How to Plant Your Medinilla
Medinilla plants can be epiphytic in the rainforest, which means they grow on trees or shrubs instead of in the ground. In this case the medinilla uses its host for support, but doesn’t draw nutrients from or harm its host plant. Medinilla plants can also grow in well-drained soil. You can use a commercial planting medium for orchids, which resembles something like chunky bark. This allows air circulation around the roots, which prevents root diseases. An orchid pot, which contains extra ventilation holes, is also well-suited for a medinilla specimen.
Medinillas appreciate acidic soil conditions, although the coral medinilla is somewhat more tolerant of alkaline conditions than other varieties. All medinillas grow best in dappled shade; direct sun will scorch the leaves or cause leaf drop. Consider the medinilla's habitat: as it grows nestled in the lower branches of large trees in the jungle, it receives dappled sunlight; you should provide similar conditions.
Medinilla Houseplants vs Outdoors
You can grow medinilla plants as houseplants, but many find that they make better patio or greenhouse specimens due to their humidity requirements. If nothing else, giving your medinilla a summer vacation in a partially sunny spot outdoors will increase its vigor. An added bonus to medinillas growing outdoors is their appeal to birds, bees, and butterflies.
General Care
Temperature: The ideal temperature for the Medinilla is between 17 and 25 degrees Celsius.
Watering: The Medinilla automatically indicates when the plant needs water again. The flowers will become limp if there is too little water. After water is given, the flowers will look beautiful again. Prevent a layer of water from standing underneath the pot. This can cause root rot.
Pruning: If you find the Medinilla to large, you can choose to cut the stem from the bottom. Do this carefully to keep the wound as small as possible.
Spraying: You can choose to spray occasionally. This will never harm the plant and ensures that the ornamental value is maintained and keeps pests away.
Nutrition: Extra nutrition is not necessary for the Medinilla. If you still want to give extra nutrition, give Orchid nutrition and keep to the dosage. It is better to do less than more. Do not give extra food in the winter. This is superfluous as the plant will be in the resting position and therefore consumes little energy.
Repotting: It is only necessary to repot when there is no other option and the roots almost grow out of the pot. Always repot in the spring, so that the plant still has enough time to recover from any damage. It is preferable to use Medinilla Anthurium soil. This is the ideal soil for the Medinilla.
Re-flowering: Carefully break out the buttons. Leave the plant in the same place until new shoots are formed. Then place the plant in a light and cool place (16-18 degrees) for a few months. Water moderately and start with additional fertilization (once a month). As soon as the plant shows new flower buds again, a room temperature of 17-23 degrees is optimal again.
Origin: In the mountainous regions of the Philippines, the Medinilla finds its origin in more than 200 different species. The Medinilla is called Kapa-kapa here. Worldwide there are even more than 400 species! The Magnifica is the best known species as an indoor plant. Through years of breeding, there are now several varieties on the market.
How to Propagate Medinilla Plants
If you're feeling especially successful with a stocky medinilla specimen, you can attempt to strike up some cuttings to increase your tropical plant collection. Cuttings root easily in a mix of damp sphagnum moss. Take a cutting with at least two leaves, but remove 2/3 of each leaf to reduce their burden on the stem. Use a powdered rooting hormone as a stem dip to encourage rooting.
Grow Medinilla Plants From Seed
Following flowering, the fruit clusters that the medinilla produces are full of seeds. In fact, one fruit cluster may produce 2000 viable seeds, and as species plants and not hybrids, the seeds will produce offspring true to its parent features. Seeds from ripe, soft fruits will be ready to grow. Crush the fruits, and you wlll see hundreds of seeds suspended in the fruit gel. Clean them in a bowl of fresh water, and change the water daily for several days to remove tannins that inhibit germination. Plant seeds on the surface of a sterile potting medium, and cover with a layer of milled sphagnum moss to prevent damping off disease. Keep moist until germination, which can take a month. Seedlings will grow about one inch a month, and may take two to three years to reach flowering size.
Medinilla Pests and Diseases
Mealy bugs may trouble medinilla plants occasionally. If so, dab the insects with a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol. Spider mites will infest medinilla plants stressed by dry conditions, but daily misting will discourage these pests.
